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Lubricating the LXD75 drive gears ? and spare parts ?


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#1 cberster

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Posted 16 May 2009 - 09:19 AM

I have a relatively new mount ( 6 months old)..I just poped the inspection cover off of the RA assembly and looked inside. It doesn't look very lubricated in there..Meade customer support said they use the "green stuff"  thanks ! I assume some lithium grease would be appropriate.. can anyone comment on this ?? thanks...also I'm a little paranoid over the fact that I can't find parts (if I ever needed them)..I'm used to the radio controlled hobby world ..where everything comes with a complete parts list...each little part has a number and is readily available...Where would I get a new drive if I needed it...it isn't on the Meade parts list that you get to through this 4M site ?? Meade customer support doesn't seem to do parts other than refer you to a "dealer"...the dealer numbers I've called didn't give any warm fuzzies ! Any help here would be appreciated also.

#2 DSOMAN

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Posted 16 May 2009 - 11:46 AM

Are you referring to the grease on the worm gear? When I had my LXD75 I re-lubed the worm gears with white lithium grease and it worked great. You can easily remove the worm drive assembly with a few screws so you can see the worm gear without taking the whole mount apart. I cleaned off the old grease with solvent then burnished the gears with a wire brush. After that apply a good amount of lithium grease.

This is a good chance to adjust the worm drive mesh tension and end play in the worm drive gear as they are not usually aligned very well from the factory. I noticed that my tracking and backlash improved allot after re-greasing and setting the worm gear tension.

Meade does not really support their products too well in my opinion [based on lots of experience]. You can buy a replacement RA or DEC motor module for around $200 but it will be very frustrating to get a commitment from Meade and actually get them to do it.

Brent

#3 cberster

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Posted 17 May 2009 - 08:55 PM

Thanks again for your help...I hope my drives keep on working for a long time..but it is a little frustrating to think it is hard to get parts !

#4 SmokeyJoe

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Posted 08 October 2016 - 07:51 AM

What about the brass and aluminum (one of ea.) spur drive-gears? Mine are dry as a bone. Are they supposed to be lubricated or not? All that I can find through searches are references to the worm-gears, not one mention of lubrication of the drive gears.. 



#5 Mark Sibole

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Posted 08 October 2016 - 04:26 PM

I dont think lubing any moving parts would be an issue.Ive used white Lith grease and also the same grease as they use in CV joints with good luck.They both hold up in hi temp and low temp situations


Mark Sibole
MTSO Observatory
Fife Lake, Mi.

http://astronomy.qteaser.com

#6 SmokeyJoe

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Posted 08 October 2016 - 05:01 PM

Thanks, Mark. I'm in the midst of correcting backlash, etc. and thought that it'd a good time to fix the lube situation while I'm at it.

 

Fife Lake, huh? Isn't that up near Traverse? I made my first two posts here yesterday, and after seeing a lot of older posts here did not expect to get any response at all. let alone a quick one. And then it's from Michigan. Syncronicity.

 

I'm down about halfway between Det. & Port Huron. Just closed up our cottage in the dark sky of the Bruce Peninsula, Ontario, Canada.

 

Thanks again. 



#7 Mark Sibole

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Posted 12 October 2016 - 04:26 PM

Yes im 35 miles SE of Traverse city.


Mark Sibole
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Fife Lake, Mi.

http://astronomy.qteaser.com

#8 SmokeyJoe

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Posted 13 October 2016 - 06:20 AM

I dont think lubing any moving parts would be an issue.Ive used white Lith grease and also the same grease as they use in CV joints with good luck.They both hold up in hi temp and low temp situations

 

After doing a  little more digging, I'm going to go with this:

 

Super Lube SM.png

 

I had to order it - still waiting. I'll let you know how it goes.



#9 MistrBadgr

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Posted 13 October 2016 - 01:24 PM

Thanks! :)

 

I would think that should work very well.  I will be interested to read what you find out.

 

Bill Steen


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#10 SmokeyJoe

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Posted 23 October 2016 - 10:08 AM

Are you referring to the grease on the worm gear? When I had my LXD75 I re-lubed the worm gears with white lithium grease and it worked great. You can easily remove the worm drive assembly with a few screws so you can see the worm gear without taking the whole mount apart. I cleaned off the old grease with solvent then burnished the gears with a wire brush. After that apply a good amount of lithium grease.

This is a good chance to adjust the worm drive mesh tension and end play in the worm drive gear as they are not usually aligned very well from the factory. I noticed that my tracking and backlash improved allot after re-greasing and setting the worm gear tension.

Meade does not really support their products too well in my opinion [based on lots of experience]. You can buy a replacement RA or DEC motor module for around $200 but it will be very frustrating to get a commitment from Meade and actually get them to do it.

Brent

As far as accessing the worm (the little straight spiral-cut unit) in the worm drive-assembly, that's the easy part. But, as I'm in the middle of cleaning/re-lubing the worm and worm gear for the first time, I'm finding that what there's almost no talk regarding accessing the worm GEAR  (I've seen it also called the 'drum gear') - the large, 360° part. So, I'm winging it, here. I'm starting with what appears to be the easier of the two worm/worm gear assemblies, that of the declination. I've just removed the saddle/cap to expose the gear. I don't know what else I'm supposed to be removing, but I never thought I was going to have to go this far in the first place. I'm probably doing this all back-a**wards, but we'll see what tomorrow brings. 



#11 MistrBadgr

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Posted 24 October 2016 - 10:59 AM

I am thinking that getting grease on the worm itself where it makes contact with the big gear, may be enough.  Then drive the mount around to get a large part of the big gear to touch the worm.  With enough work, the grease will be pushed around on the gear.  Otherwise, just a touch of grease in a few places around the big gear, if you can get to any of it at all, may be enough.  I don't think you want to put grease on all of the big gear.  You will have grease getting everywhere inside if you do. (going by my experience in DS mounts)

 

Bill Steen


Bill Steen, Sky Hunters' Haven Observatory, Broken Arrow, Oklahoma

#12 SmokeyJoe

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Posted 24 October 2016 - 01:40 PM

I am thinking that getting grease on the worm itself where it makes contact with the big gear, may be enough.  Then drive the mount around to get a large part of the big gear to touch the worm.  With enough work, the grease will be pushed around on the gear.  Otherwise, just a touch of grease in a few places around the big gear, if you can get to any of it at all, may be enough.  I don't think you want to put grease on all of the big gear.  You will have grease getting everywhere inside if you do. (going by my experience in DS mounts)

 

Bill Steen

 

Good point, Bill. And thanks for the response. 

 

Before removing the saddle-section of mount, I could access only about 100° of the worm gear. This pic shows the mess of both black and greenish original 'grease':

 

1 Dec Gear Before 25.png

 

Afterwards, the entire 360° was accessible. Here it is after cleaning:

 

2 Dec Gear After 25.png

 

Looks prettier, anyways. I haven't lubed it yet. I was thinking the same thing about not over-doing the grease on the ring gear, Bill. I plan on lubing the hell out of the worm gear, itself. But, as for this 360° worm gear, I plan on just sort of wiping some on, then wiping it off, leaving just a bit of a film. Then I'll 'work' the mount a bit & re-check to see how it's distributed. This is all uncharted territory for me, so I'm proceeding with a bit of trepidation.






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