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Juptier LPI

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#1 Guest_cym_*

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Posted 13 May 2007 - 11:51 AM

I need some help.

How should I be taking pictures of Jupiter? I did this one last night. It seems way too bright. I tried adjusting the exposure but that didn't help. It looks like you can see detail around the bright middle. Do I need to use any filters. As you can guess, I'm pretty new to this.


ETX 90
Near a big city.

Thanks for your help.


#2 pughpl



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Posted 13 May 2007 - 04:43 PM

Let me start by saying I am no expert and most of my images are of the moon.  I really love observing the moon. However, I have made a few images of Jupiter.  I have been using the LPI for over a year now and I can tell you a couple of things I have discovered. But again, I don't want to give you the impression I have it all figured out, I do not.

To begin, when I first move to target like Jupiter, I run the Auto Expose.  Once that is done, I continue to fine tune the focus.  Then I start adjusting the gain.  I find the gain is often too high, objects often look way too bright at least that is my experience.

Next I like to use "align and combine" and set my minimum image quality to at least 65%. 

I also keep the long exposure unchecked.  Jupiter is bright, I do not think you need long exposure.  If you do, I hope someone chimes in here and helps me understand why or when I need to do long exposure on planets. Okay, possibly Uranus or Neptune, but I really wonder if the LPI could actually image either of those.  My LPI goes nuts whenever it is not aimed at something bright.  Like I said, I do not have it all figured out.

I would also suggest color filters for planetary imaging.  Filters have ratings ( "Wratten"). For Jupiter the best filters are 80A, 82A, 12, and 21.  These filters bring out different features of Jupiter.

Wratten 80A and 82A bring out the boundaries between the belt zones.  If you are observing festoons, garlands, or the polar regions, then Wratten 12 or 21. 

Best of luck.  I think the best advise for you is practice, practice, practice. 


#3 Mark Sibole

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Posted 13 May 2007 - 05:19 PM

Tht will be a combination of keeping exposure time way down and adjusting the contrast
Jupiter being very bright will be a very short exposure possible around .015 to .020 seconds
When doing your preview there you can adjust the histogram to eliminate the severe brightness/


Mark Sibole
MTSO Observatory
Fife Lake, Mi.


#4 James4



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Posted 14 May 2007 - 09:38 PM


I use the LPI with a Meade 5" Refractor.
I let auto-adjust find the brightness, then turn it down from there - it's always too bright, but its a good starting point.

I take several sets of images: first reasonably bright, then dimmer, then really dim (this is often the correct setting).  You should definately see the cloud belts on your computer screen when you have the right exposure - the image will look very dim.  I set my quality to 85% and check the save every image check-box.  I let a set run until I see the image count at about 50.  Then I stop, change the brightness, tweak the focus and run again.  I've only imaged Jupiter a couple of times - strangley had more success with Mars.

Some images at www.starchasers.ca - see the planets tab

Clear Skies


#5 Brent



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Posted 16 May 2007 - 09:12 PM

          Cool images Mark thanks for posting them.  Brent

#6 Mike Zapalowski Jr

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Posted 21 May 2007 - 07:01 AM

I just started myself and my second night out with some patience and playing with different settings, I got the image below. I used Registax to process on 2 user points. I don't recall the exact exposure but was low as suggested - .01 or .02. I recommend an autoexposure before you start and adjust from there. I do not allow the auto histogram as it always seems to wash my image out so I manually adjust that. Telescope is an ETX105PE UHTC - I believe it is a 4.5" mirror (Meade does not make anymore from what I understand)

Posted Image

I am still learning about both LPI capture and post processing. I am looking for more tips myself to get a cleaner picture. I thik part of the problem is a piece of junk Barlow lens.
M. Zapalowski
Jack of All Trades, Master of None

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